persimmon, walnut and browned butter roll cake

apparently i am channelling all the autumn vibes: a toasted walnut roll cake filled with persimmons and browned butter cream  

persimmon & walnut roll cake with browned butter creampersimmon & walnut roll cake with browned butter cream

A little while ago I posted my first try at making browned butter cream by emulsifying together browned butter and milk using a Bel cream maker. The resultant cream tasted intensely of browned butter, and the combination of caramelization and creamy richness reminded me of a dark salted caramel. Of course I had so many other ideas of how else to try using it!

persimmon & walnut roll cake with browned butter creampersimmon & walnut roll cake with browned butter creampersimmon & walnut roll cake with browned butter cream

I’ve since refined the proportions and methods for the browned butter cream. Last time I followed the instructions that came with the Bel cream maker to make double cream – while it’s still a good recipe to have on hand due to the intensity of the browned butter and it’s easy enough to dilute down, for my purposes I only needed 36% milk fat whipping cream. I calculated the proportions for a 36% whipping cream as a ratio of 0.7-0.8 butter to 1 milk, depending on if you account for water loss from browning the butter. I decided to follow the higher ratio to ensure that the fat content was sufficient to easily whip up the cream. It certainly made a cream with whippability – though I noticed that browned butter cream still doesn’t whip as smoothly as regular cream, which I suspect is to do the homemade emulsification.

I also tweaked the methods with an easy modification that makes the process much easier. As the Bel cream maker emulsifies the from the bottom  of the upper chamber, if the milk and butter separate into layers, at first you’re only passing milk through, and then at the end only melted butter is being pumped – which is not as conducive to emulsification as one would hope. However I found a couple minutes of vigorously whisking the melted butter and milk together before pouring it into the cream maker generates a fairly stable emulsion giving you ample time to properly homogenize it.

persimmon & walnut roll cake with browned butter creampersimmon & walnut roll cake with browned butter creampersimmon walnut roll cake

I’m imagining a lot of savoury applications for the cream – like finishing a pureed vegetable soup, tossed into pasta, or a gratin.

But the sweet applications come first to mind. This time I used the browned butter cream in combination with persimmons and toasted walnut (gotgamssam inspiration). The toasted walnut cake is mild, so be sure to sprinkle the piped cream with additional toasted walnut, a small thing, but as I ate a slice of cake, it was also one of the most noticeable sources of the toasted walnut flavour. The ripe chunks of persimmon have a mellow perfume that plays kindly with the nutty cream and cake, and together it is all endlessly autumnal – it makes me happy for the seasons to have been turning.

persimmon & walnut roll cake with browned butter cream

persimmon, walnut and browned butter roll cake

  • Servings: 6-8 small slices of roll cake
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browned butter cream

Makes about 250g cream – more than you’ll need for this cake, but then you have extra for other projects!

  • 110g butter
  • 140g milk

In a small saucepan, brown the butter. Let cool briefly, then add the milk. If the mixture isn’t warm enough to keep the butter melted, heat the mixture. Transfer to a bowl and whisk vigorously for a couple minutes or until the butter and milk are emulsified together.

Pour into the upper chamber of a Bel cream maker and pass through. Chill completely. Be sure to stir before using as the cream settles slightly.

toasted walnut cake

Cake recipe adapted from Rice ‘n Flour.

  • 22g finely chopped toasted walnuts (350F for around 10 minutes)
  • 23g a.p. flour
  • 3 eggs, split
  • 45g sugar
  • 30g milk
  • 30g oil
  • pinch salt
  • pinch cream of tartar

Preheat the oven to 350F. Line a quarter sheet pan with parchment paper (I recommend the method in the original source recipe video for ease and nice sharp edges on the cake).

Grind together the walnuts and flour in a food processor/spice grinder until finely ground. If it’s not grinding very smoothly, pass through a sieve and discard any chunks of walnut. Weigh the resulting powder and add a bit of cornstarch starch to bring it up to 45g.

Whisk together the egg yolks with the oil and milk. Whisk in the flour/nut mixture until completely combined.

In a stand mixer, whisk the egg whites with the salt and cream of tartar until frothy, then sprinkle in the sugar and whip until stiff peaks are formed. Fold one dollop of the egg whites into the batter completely before adding the remainder and folding in lightly. Scrape into the prepared pan, level with an offset spatula and tap to release any large air bubbles.

Bake around 15 minutes or until lightly browned, springy, and an inserted wooden skewer/toothpick is removed clean.

Let cool on a wire rack.

filling

  • 180g whipping cream – I used 1:1 browned butter cream to regular cream (which also has a bit of a smoother consistency), but you can use 100% browned butter cream or dilute it more depending on your preferences
  • 1 fuyu persimmon, chopped

to garnish

  • a bit of extra whipped cream
  • a bit of reserved persimmon, cut into small pieces
  • finely chopped toasted walnuts

Once completely cooled, prepare the filling by whipping the cream (sweetened to taste if desired).

To assemble, place the cake right side up (i.e. with the bottom of the cake facing down to become the outside of the roll and spread with whipped cream. Leave a strip along the short edge furthest away from you bare. Nestle a line of chopped persimmons in the cream alongside the short edge of the cake closest to you and scatter the rest over the cream. Starting from the close short edge, use the parchment paper to help you roll up the cake into round log. Roll tightly, but not so tightly such that the filling is squeezed out. Wrap and chill for a couple of hours to allow everything to firm up.

For garnish, whip a bit of extra cream and transfer to a piping bag (I used one fitted with a petal tip). Pipe dollops of cream on top, add a few small pieces of persimmon and sprinkle with finely chopped toasted walnuts.

persimmon & walnut roll cake with browned butter cream

9 thoughts on “persimmon, walnut and browned butter roll cake

  1. wow looks beautiful! The browned butter cream sounds super interesting, and I love the idea of persimmons and toasted walnuts. Lots of great textures and lovely fall flavors!!

    Liked by 1 person

  2. I love how you use these unique ingredients in your recipes. I haven’t had a persimmon for years. They do occasionally sell them in one of my local grocery stores. The kind on my parents’ property are a different variety, though.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Thank you for the lovely comment! I love persimmons but I also find them a bit tricky to find some years – there are quite a few around where I am right now at least! Ooh, it sounds like it would quite fascinating to grow persimmons 🙂

      Liked by 1 person

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