This ice cream has a bit of a peanut butter and jelly vibe – though without tasting too much like peanut butter as I am not much of a peanut butter-person. Brown sugar and kinako (toasted soybean powder) flavours a mellow, toasty ice cream base interrupted by frosty chunks of roasted strawberry.
The first time I made this ice cream (last summer) I way overshot on the kinako. That and the fact that I had made the base with cornstarch instead of egg yolks made for a rather… starchy-tasting ice cream… oh, we can just be frank about it: it was terrible!
After I managed to finish eating it/coerce others into eating it (the dangers of being in close proximity to me is a lot of failed baking), I gave it another go this summer. This time I was a bit more mindful of how much kinako I added – plenty enough for distinct flavour, but not so much the ice cream became a starch slurry. I also switched to a custard base and added brown sugar, a flavour that complements the kinako well.
brown sugar kinako ice cream with roasted strawberries
240g strawberries, hulled and cut into small chunks
2 tsp granulated sugar
2 egg yolks
40g brown sugar
200g heavy cream
Preheat the oven to 350F. Combined the strawberries and granulated sugar and allow to macerate while the oven heats. Spread the strawberries out on a small tray lined with parchment paper and bake around 20 minutes or until cooked and jammy. Let cool, then chill completely.
Whisk together the egg yolk, brown sugar and kinako – it will be very thick. Heat the milk and cream in a saucepan until steaming. Remove from the heat and pour a small splash into the egg yolk mixture and whisk to combine (just a bit at first as the thickness of the egg yolk mixture will make it a bit challenging to whisk). Then slowly pour in the remainder while whisking to temper the egg yolks.
Return to the saucepan and place over medium-low heat. Constantly scraping the bottom of the saucepan with a rubber spatula, cook gently or until the mixture thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon and hold a line drawn in it (or a temperature of around 160F). Transfer to a bowl and chill completely.
Churn the ice cream base in an ice cream maker according to manufacturer’s instructions. Add the strawberries near the end and churn a few times just to work them in.