pineapple & salted egg yolk paris-brest

pineapple and salted egg yolk paris-brest
pineapple and salted egg yolk paris-brest
pineapple and salted egg yolk paris-brest

Happy upcoming Lunar New Year! As any new year traditions became very dilute by the time they trickled down to my generation, I never do too much aside from a dinner with the family bubble. So for me, the best part is the stories from family on their past new years, from massive family gatherings involving trays and trays of dumplings to dangling lettuces and money from the balcony as the lion dancers paraded through Montreal’s Chinatown.

Pineapple cakes (or their tart counterpart), which figure prominently in Taiwanese (or Malaysian, respectively) new year traditions, are also not something I grew up with but since I first tried one, I’ve loved the combination of crumbly rich pastry and pineapple filling. I love cheap pineapple cakes (which people tell me are not very good) and expensive Taiwanese ones (which I have since tried and agree are better) – overall, any pineapple cake will do for me. This bake was inspired by a very delicious pineapple cake with salted egg yolk I once tried. I borrowed the flavours for a Paris-Brest with a layer of pineapple jam along the bottom and a salted egg yolk cream piped over top.

pineapple and salted egg yolk paris-brest
pineapple and salted egg yolk paris-brest
pineapple and salted egg yolk paris-brest

While some fruits lose their flavour when cooked, pineapple jam stays sweet, tart and fruity despite a long cook and slight caramelization. And it plays as both compliment and contrast against the salted egg yolk brown sugar crème mousseline where the saltiness of the egg yolks and brown sugar come across as a salted caramel-ish flavour. I used a crème mousseline as filling which has a similar richness, structure and formula to the classic crème praliné, but can be made with a more muted sweetness. I tend to find Paris-Brest too sweet with the praline paste, but this take, even with the sweet pineapple jam, is balanced to my tastes.

Other Lunar New Year baking: six years ago my attempts to make steamed fatt gou.

pineapple and salted egg yolk paris-brest

pineapple & salted egg yolk paris-brest

Pineapple jam based on guidance from Taste Asian Food, What to Cook Today and Kavey Eats. Crème mousseline adapted from Chef Iso.

choux

Makes 4-5 rings.

  • 65g butter
  • 145g water
  • 2 tsp sugar
  • good pinch salt
  • 80g whole wheat flour
  • about 2 eggs – may need more or less
  • sesame seeds

Preheat the oven to 450F. Line a baking pan with a sheet of parchment paper – on the backside, trace five 8-cm diametre circles.

In a saucepan, place the butter, water, sugar and salt. Bring to a boil, add the flour and quickly mix in with a wooden spoon. Lower the heat and continue to cook the mixture until it forms a ball and a dry film on the bottom of the pot. Remove the pastry from the heat and let cool slightly before adding the egg, a bit at a time – use either the wooden spoon or switch to a wire whisk if preferred. You may need or more less of the eggs – the dough should be shiny, but not fluid. (If you’re new to choux pastry, check out a guide for what to look for – I really like this one from The Flavor Bender.)

Transfer the dough to a piping bag fitted with a large french star tip (I used Wilton 8B which has a 3/4″ diameter opening). Pipe 4 or 5 rounds following the 8cm diametre circle guides traced on the parchment. Sprinkle with sesame seeds.

Place in the oven and turn the temperature down to 400F. Bake for around 35 minutes or until deeply browned. Once out of the oven, cut slits into the sides of the rings to allow steam to escape.

pineapple jam

  • 1 large pineapple, peeled and chopped for about 700g pineapple flesh
  • 140g sugar (or 1/5th the weight of pineapple)
  • 25g butter

For preparing the pineapple, begin by cutting off the skin. Cut the flesh from the core and chop. I also included the less woody parts of the stem as well. Put the pineapple in the bowl of a stand mixer and blend for a more finely chopped puree. I ended up with 700g of pineapple. Place in a sieve and let the excess juice drain for about five minutes.

Transfer the drained pineapple pulp and sugar to a non-stick skillet. Over medium heat, cook the pineapple mixture, stirring constantly until it thickens, dries and takes on a deeper golden colour, about 30-40 minutes. Add the butter and cook a few minutes more, then transfer to a jar and set aside to cool. Store in the fridge until ready to use.

salted egg yolk brown sugar crème mousseline

This makes enough for a very thick layer of cream and extra. Lots of cream looks more aesthetic, but this can be easily reduced to a 2/3 recipe for a bit of a thinner layer of cream and not extra.

  • 6 cooked salted duck egg yolks
  • 300g whole milk
  • 3 egg yolks
  • 30g cornstarch
  • 40g brown sugar
  • 30g granulated sugar
  • 1 1/4 tsp powdered gelatin bloomed in 1 tbsp water
  • 130g butter, softened

To cook the salted duck egg yolks, simmer them for about 6 minutes until cooked through. Roughly chop the cooked egg yolks. Use an immersion blender to blend the egg yolks into the milk until as smooth as you can get it. Transfer to a saucepan.

In a bowl, whisk together the (unsalted) egg yolks, cornstarch and sugars.

Heat the milk until steaming, then slowly drizzle into the cornstarch mixture, whisking constantly to temper the yolks. Return the mixture to the saucepan and continue to cook, whisking constantly, until you notice the mixture thickening and beginning to slowly bubble (you’ll have to pause your whisk to see the bubbling). Continue to cook for at least 1 minute more, all whisk whisking vigorously, to completely cook the starch. Then remove from the heat and immediately scrape the cream into a bowl (you can pass through a sieve first if you are concerned about lumps). Right away, whisk in the bloomed gelatin until melted, as well a tbsp or so of the butter. Cover and set aside to let cool to room temperature.

Place the remaining butter in the bowl a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Whisk the butter until smooth and light. Add the pastry cream, a few spoonfuls at a time, to the butter, whisking in each addition until smooth before adding the next. Scrape down the sides of the bowl every so often. At the end, whip for a few minutes until the mousseline cream is quite light and fluffy.

Use soon!

assembly

  • coconut flakes
  • powdered sugar

Slice each choux ring in half. Spread some pineapple jam on the bottom halves. Transfer the mousseline cream to a piping bag fitted with a large star tip and pipe swirls of cream over the jam. Sprinkle some coconut flakes overtop. Put the top of each choux ring back on top. Dust with a bit of powdered sugar if desired.

pineapple and salted egg yolk paris-brest

5 thoughts on “pineapple & salted egg yolk paris-brest

    1. Salted egg yolks are such a delight in both savoury and sweet things! Excited for you to give them a try Ronit 🙂 There are all sorts of snack foods with salted egg yolk flavour or some of my favourite things with salted eggs are steamed sticky rice dumplings (on the savoury side) or lotus seed mooncakes (on the sweet side).

      Liked by 1 person

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