Hello again! Another post! And before the summer ends. Truly! It is still August by my calendar.
I usually do a rhubarb cake of some variety to commemorate another year of blogging – i.e. the convenient portmanteau that is the blogiversary. However, just as I am devoid of any novel commemorative thoughts on blogging, I wasn’t really feeling inspired for any sort of rhubarb cake this year. Not until my sister made a lovely rhubarb sumac crumb cake from Yossy Arefi’s Snacking Cakes, a vanilla cake base topped with rhubarb and a surprisingly fruity sumac-spotted crumble.
Inspired by that, I made this Victoria sponge. It’s a simpler cake, which may be a bit underwhelming for a !!-blogiversary-!! cake, though also rather appropriate… I think it’s a bit more emblematic of the type of baking I’ve been doing this past while, which has been simpler, quicker, and less fuss!
Taking inspiration from the sumac crumb cake, I’ve used ground sumac in both a crumb top and in the strawberry rhubarb jam layered into this cake. I think it goes so nicely in both – a bit lemon, a bit berry, and a very nice speckle.
While I’m still calling this a Victoria sponge, it departs from the classic in a few ways… most glaringly, the crumb top!? If it doesn’t offend the senses too much, I hope you consider it! I ended up enjoying the extra texture, flavour and rustic topography. I did try a dusting of icing sugar over the crumb, but it looked better without, and no extra sweetness is needed anyways.
For simplicity, the cake is baked as a single layer with the crumb on top and then sliced in half to form the two layers, which is handy if you only have one cake tin. As well, though this really varies by recipe, I’ve made the cake layers a bit thinner than usual for a Victoria sponge. For one, this makes the cake a bit easier to slice, and secondly, (in my opinion) also means better ratio of cream to cake. I use enough cream that the cross section is roughly 1 cake:1 cream:1 cake.
While you can certainly go the buttercream route for a Victoria sponge, I always prefer the whipped cream. Cream does necessitate that leftover cake be stored in the fridge, which poses a bit of a conundrum: a filling that is best stored cold sandwiched between two layers of butter cake which are best eaten at room temperature. I’ve used 30% ground almonds in place of flour in this cake, in part because I always love nut cakes, but also because it gives the cake an extra tenderness which helps keep it more palatable if you need to eat the leftovers cold from the fridge.
strawberry, rhubarb & sumac crumb victoria sponge cake
Sumac crumb based on Yossy Arefi’s rhubarb crumb cake with sumac crumble from Snacking Cakes. Cake itself is adapted from a standard victoria sponge formula.
Note on the “jam” – this is made to be stored in the fridge and used soon and doesn’t have the sugar content or sterilization for long term storage like proper jam. Anyways, I really like to make this jam (really more of a very thick compote) for various baking projects – you can double the recipe and only stir sumac into half of it so you have another batch for eating/other bakes.
equipment: 18cm/7″ round springform tin
strawberry rhubarb sumac jam
- 140g chopped rhubarb
- 70g chopped strawberries
- 25g granulated sugar
- squeeze lemon juice
- 1/2 tsp vanilla bean paste
- 1 tsp ground sumac
sumac crumb
- 42g butter
- 15g brown sugar
- pinch kosher salt
- 1 tsp ground sumac
- 47g whole wheat flour
- 20g rolled oats
cake
- 100g butter, softened
- 65g granulated sugar
- 1/2 tsp vanilla extract
- 2 large eggs, at room temperature
- 70g cake or all-purpose flour
- 30g almond flour/finely ground almonds
- 1 1/2 tsp baking powder
- 1/2 tsp kosher salt
- 1-2 tbsp milk
to fill
- 200g whipping cream
- 1 tsp granulated sugar, or to taste
For the jam, toss the rhubarb, strawberries and sugar together in a small saucepan.Warm the mixture over gentle heat until juices are released from the fruit. Then bring the mixture up a simmer. Cook, stirring frequently, until the fruit breaks apart and the mixture thickens, about 15 minutes. Stir in the lemon juice, vanilla bean paste and sumac. Transfer to a container, let chill, then store in the fridge.
For the sumac crumb, cream the butter, sugar, salt and sumac together. Add the flour, then the oats. Set aside.
For the cake, preheat the oven to 350F. Butter a 7-inch (18cm) springform tin and line the base with a circle of parchment paper.
In a mixing bowl, cream the butter and sugar with a wooden spoon until light. Beat in the vanilla and then the eggs, one at a time, until the mixture is as smooth as it gets, switching to a whisk as it becomes looser.
Whisk together the flour, almond flour, baking powder and salt. Add to the butter mixture and mix until just combined. Add 1 tbsp of milk, and a second if needed, to bring the batter to dropping consistency where it falls from the spoon.
Spread the batter into the prepared tin. Scatter clumps of crumble over top. Bake the cake for about 25-30 minutes or until an inserted skewer is removed clean or with only a few crumbs clinging. Let cool on a wire rack.
To assemble, use a long serrated knife to cut the cake in half. Due to the height of the crumbs, cut a bit below the mid line to make sure the top half still has enough cake – I find the crumb tends to pile up in the middle of the cake, so the cake will be a bit thinner there.
Whip the cream with 1 tsp sugar until it holds its shape. Transfer to a piping bag fitted with a large round tip (the one I used is 1.8cm in diameter). Spread the bottom half of the cake with the jam. Pipe mounds of cream around the edges, then fill in the middle with the rest of the cream, spreading to fill in any gaps if needed. Place the other half of the cake on top.
How do you cut this cake without the cream squishing out? Use a serrated knife and saw gently through the top layer of cake – don’t apply too much downwards pressure and just let the knife work through the cake for you. Chilling the cake will give the cream some time to firm which will help with clean cuts, but if you don’t mind a bit of mess, I think a Victoria sponge is best enjoyed not long after it is assembled while the cake is at room temperature and the cream is cold.